!±8±Velcro Industrial Strength Sticky-Back Hook & Loop Fasteners, Black, 2inX15 Foot Roll (VEK90197)
Brand : VelcroRate :
Price : $23.20
Post Date : Mar 04, 2012 07:37:01
Usually ships in 24 hours
Great for all types of indoor and outdoor projects.
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Velcro Industrial Strength Sticky-Back Hook & Loop Fasteners, Black, 2inX15 Foot Roll (VEK90197)
Rate :
Price : $23.20
Post Date : Mar 04, 2012 07:37:01
Usually ships in 24 hours
Wednesday, February 29, 2012
Krazy Glue KG92548R Instant Krazy Glue 0.18-Ounce All Purpose Brush
!±8± Krazy Glue KG92548R Instant Krazy Glue 0.18-Ounce All Purpose Brush
Brand : Krazy Glue | Rate : | Price : $2.46
Post Date : Feb 29, 2012 19:28:35 | Usually ships in 2-3 business days
| Price : $2.46Post Date : Feb 29, 2012 19:28:35 | Usually ships in 2-3 business days
This brush applicator system provides instant all-purpose Krazy Glue. It gives excellent surface coverage while the brush stays fresh in a no-clog bottle. It's great for hard to reach surfaces and bonds wood, metal, ceramics, pottery, rubber, vinyl, leather, and plastic, forming a strong long-lasting bond on most surfaces. Warning: it is an eye irritant and should be kept out of reach of children. This bottle contains .18 ounces.
More Specification..!!
5 Carat Diamond Round Setting Tennis Bracelet In 14 Karat White Gold... For Sale Saving Womens Digital Watch Atv Foot Pegs Quick
Sunday, February 26, 2012
Duck Brand 868088 1.88-Inch-by-15-Yard Colored Duct Tape, Funky Flamingo
!±8± Duck Brand 868088 1.88-Inch-by-15-Yard Colored Duct Tape, Funky Flamingo
- Colored duct tape ideal for crafting and do-it-yourself projects
- Tears easily by hand without curling; conforms to uneven surfaces
- More cotton fibers per square inch than all-purpose-grade duct tape
- Excellent adhesion to a wide variety of surfaces
- Neon pink color; 1.88-inches-by-15-yard roll
More Specification..!!
Duck Brand 868088 1.88-Inch-by-15-Yard Colored Duct Tape, Funky Flamingo
Thursday, February 9, 2012
Pro Caulk Complete Caulking Kit (As Seen On TV)
!±8± Pro Caulk Complete Caulking Kit (As Seen On TV)
Brand : Pro Caulk | Rate : | Price : $8.47
Post Date : Feb 09, 2012 23:42:30 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $8.47Post Date : Feb 09, 2012 23:42:30 | Usually ships in 24 hours
- 1 caulk removal tool
- 2 sealing edges
- 1 bonus mini applicator
- 5.5 oz tube of DAP Kwik Seal Plus caulk
- Perfect corners without wasted caulk, silicone or grout
More Specification..!!
Pro Caulk Complete Caulking Kit (As Seen On TV)
Trunk Mount Bicycle Rack Get It Now! Purchasing Dvd Home Theater System
Monday, February 6, 2012
Sashco 13013 5oz Sashco Sealants Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk, 5-Ounce
!±8± Sashco 13013 5oz Sashco Sealants Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk, 5-Ounce
Brand : Sashco | Rate : | Price : $5.29
Post Date : Feb 06, 2012 22:16:42 | Usually ships in 24 hours
| Price : $5.29Post Date : Feb 06, 2012 22:16:42 | Usually ships in 24 hours
A versatile multipurpose caulk sealant. May be used on a variety of materials both inside and outside. It is scrubbable and mildew resistant. Remains elastic over a wide temperature range, adheres very well. Available in white and clear. The clear is known for its extreme clarity. Paintable after 24 to 48 hours cure at room temperature with latex paints. Application range: 10 F. to 120 F. Service range: 30 F. to 200 F.
- Will not support mildew growth
- Firmly binds to almost any surface
- Paintable and scrubbable
- Great for kitchen and bath use
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Saturday, January 14, 2012
How to Make Tile Mosaics & Patterns : How to Adhere Tiles to a Stepping Stone to Form Mosaics
Learn how to adhere mosaic tiles onto a stepping stone in this free video on making tile mosaics. Expert: Faith Schexnayder Contact: www.flatforkstudio.com Bio: Faith Schexnayder is an Austin based Artist, Designer and Sculptor.
Tuesday, January 10, 2012
Install Your Holiday Lighting the Professional Way
Each year we have thousands of customers who call us to get advice about their holiday lighting and one of their biggest concerns is how to get a straight professional look along their roof line. Investing in and using the right products will not only make your project look better when it is done but your Christmas Lights will probably be safer to operate as well. Despite popular belief it is not using staples that will give you the best look and safest installation (don't tell me you haven't stapled through your lights while installing them or come back the next year to rusted fragments of last year's Lighting Job still hanging on your roof line, we see and hear about it all the time). Instead do yourself a favor and get Christmas Light Clips!
When hanging outdoor Christmas lights, it is helpful to know which supplies you will need and the method you should use to hang outdoor Christmas lights before you begin. The supplies and methods differ based on the roof type. If you plan to hang outdoor Christmas lights on gutters, under shingles, or under tiles, there are a few basic light clips that you should invest in for your next job and we will detail the advantages of each here for you. And remember if you want a clean, consistent look, yes you will need a clip for each bulb.
Most people will be able to utilize the All-In-One clip best on their homes. It is great for use with C7 & C9 light line as well as Mini Lights (for those haven't been converted to the benefits of using the C7 & C9 lights exclusively). Christmas All-In-One Clips can be placed on a gutter, under shingles or on roof tiles, and are very easy to hang. Place all bulbs into the Christmas All-In-One Clips before hanging any of the lights, this will make the job of hanging Christmas lights easier.
All-In-One Clips can be reused year after year. Remove the clip and light as a unit and carefully wrap lights for the next year. Christmas All-In-One Clips fit snuggly onto gutters and should not slip or move. These clips should be used on every Christmas light bulb to create an even, constant look for your Christmas display. All-In-One Clips can also be hung under gutters and on facia edging.
Another option for installing Christmas Lights both houses and Commercial Buildings is the use of Shingle tabs either by themselves for homes with shingle roofs or in combination with parapet clips for commercial installations where you want to make installation easier year to year on flat roof lines. Shingle tabs work for both C7 and C9 lights. The larger hole is for C9 lights while the smaller hole is for C7 lights. Inserting C7 or C9 lamps is done by placing the bulb on one side of the tab and the socket on the other. Then screw the bulb into the socket. The plastic shingle tab will not overheat. Each bulb will need to have its own shingle tab so the lights will hang straight and even. Place all bulbs into the shingle tabs prior to hanging any of them. Christmas shingle tabs are then inserted under shingles. Christmas shingle tabs should fit snuggly under shingles and should not slip or move. If the shingle tab fits loosely under the shingles, fold the end tabs down and then slide the shingle tab back under the shingle. This should hold it firmly in place. Shingle tabs can be reused year after year. Remove the tab and light as a unit and carefully wrap lights for next year.
When you want to use shingle tabs on commercial buildings or places with flat roofs or where you can't slip a clip under a roofing material parapet clips will help you. Parapet clips are basically a small, flat plastic piece that the Shingle Tabs can slide onto. The parapet clips can stay up year round so all you have to remove each year is the light line with shingle tabs, the next year just slide the shingle tabs with light line back on and you are done, so easy.
The C-Clip is another great way to install your holiday lights on a flat building or roof (many commercial buildings or homes in the Southwest have flat roofs). To install these you will need heavy duty construction adhesive or screws, caulk gun, stiff bristled brush, C-Clips, and a measuring stick. First things first, prior to attaching Christmas C-Clips to the roof, it is necessary to use a stiff bristled brush and clean the surface.
Outdoor Christmas light bulb sockets are spaced 12, 15 or 18 inches apart. After you decide which Christmas light string spacing you are going to use, create a measuring stick. Mark the stick in increments 1 1/2 inches shorter than the light line spacing. For example, if you are hanging 18 inch spaced Christmas light line, mark the stick in 16 1/2 inch increments. If you mark your stick at exactly 18 inches, you may be "off" by a fraction when you glue the C-Clip in place and the Christmas light line will not fit. The 1 1/2 inch difference is important because once you have glued your clips in place you do not want to have to redo them. Place the measuring stick on the roof. At each mark, place a quarter-size dab of heavy duty construction adhesive (caulk) on the edge of the roof. Place the C-Clips on the caulk and press down until the caulk goes through the holes in the C-Clip. Note that using caulk and C-Clips is relatively permanent. C-Clips are generally left in place year after year with only minor yearly repairs if needed. You could also attach the C-Clip with screws but doing so on some commercial buildings will void warranties so we always recommend sticking with the construction adhesive instead. If you are decorating for Christmas, C7 or C9 Light Line is usually removed each year while the C-Clips remain in place. The C7 and C9 C-Clips usually are hung perpendicular (horizontal) to the roof of the building.
Each C-Clip fits both a C7 or C9 socket base. One end has a larger opening than the other. The larger end is for C9 light line while the smaller end is for C7 light line. Be sure as you place the C-Clips on the caulk, that each clip is facing the same direction. Once the C-Clips are attached to the roof, the light line can be inserted. You can screw the C7 or C9 lamps into the C7 or C9 light line before snapping it into place. If you want to change the color of the lamp, simply remove the lamp and screw in the new one. When you are ready to remove the light line, you can snap the light line out of the C-Clips, leaving the C-Clips in place for next year.
Sunday, January 8, 2012
How to Properly Caulk Your Bathtub Or Shower
Caulking is an important maintenance process that ensures that no water seeps into the tiles or along the joints between tiles and your bathtub or shower stall. Remember: do not take leaky or aging caulk for granted.
What could start out as a harmless brown tinge along the edges of the caulk, could eventually lead to brittleness and cracks. Leaks in turn, pave the way for water to ooze in, causing mold and mildew buildup, or could loosen tiles in the surrounding area. Once it reaches that point, the repair process can be more expensive and time-consuming. Get rid of leaky or aging caulk before this happens!
Got exactly this problem right now? Lucky for you, caulk is cheap and recaulking your tub or shower is not as complicated as you think. You can even do it yourself! With a few common tools and some materials from the hardware shop, you can have new caulk in your bathroom in no time... or maybe in an hour or two.
Here are the five easy steps to caulking:
1. Remove old caulk. Old caulk can be stubborn. But removing it isn't that hard and you have many options to doing it. You can use a heat gun to soften caulk if it is water based. You can also use a sharp, plastic razor blade; metal blades can scratch sinks and tubs. There are also caulk removing products like Caulk-Be-Gone and Adhesive and Caulk Remover, but these can harm plastics.
2. Scrub the area smooth and clean. The best material that you can use to remove all traces of caulk residue is a dry, non abrasive scrub. Silicone caulk can be cleaned up using a soft rag slightly wet with mineral spirits. You may also opt to wipe the area clean with denatured alcohol.
3. Apply mildew cleaner. Before recaulking, spray the joint with a mildew killer to completely eliminate any hints of remaining mildew. Once this is done, dry the area thoroughly with paper towels, a dry rag, or a hair dryer.
4. Tape then caulk. For a professional-looking job, apply parallel strips of tape first along the length of the joint. Use blue painter's tape and have them around 3/8 of an inch apart. The caulk should go between these two strips and the tape should help keep the application straight, even, and away from surfaces where it shouldn't be.
Although you have the option to use a caulking gun, squeeze tubes are easier to control for the novice user. You would want to make the tube opening just right - not too large - so as not to apply too much caulk on the joint. You could always add a little more caulk to spots that need it, rather than spread over large blobs of caulk.
5. Smooth and remove (tape). When done, dampen a lint-free rag or paper towel and putting this over your finger, smoothen the caulk into the joint with your finger, pulling it along in one fluid motion to have the fresh caulk form into a concave bead. Remove the tape one strip at a time, and take care not to let it touch the fresh caulk.
Wait 24 hours before using your bathtub or shower.
There you have it! An easy, do-it-yourself solution to your leaky caulk and mildew problem.
Monday, December 26, 2011
How to Do Window Tinting
Window Tinting Bmps - Best supervision Practices and Procedures. Every auto detailer who lives in works south of the Mason Dixon line or in a large metro area has asked themselves; should I offer window tinting to my customers? Every wholesale auto detailer in such states in areas has probably been asked by their customers, namely new car dealerships and small used car dealerships, do you know anybody who does window tinting? That easy interrogate spins around your mind like a conception you can control, hey, maybe I should you window tinting, what can I charge, how do you do it? Is it difficult?
Many auto detailer's and pro car care specialists or even those that call themselves mobile car washers and detailer's have carefully such a tact. Some have found that they did not have permissible training, that was not as easy as it looked in that they had made a grave mistake. While others seem to have a knack for tinting windows tinting windows is as much an art as a science you have to mistake and a truthful I and patience, just the thing for a detailer, well at least a pro one, person who is into the details. Here are some tips and ideas that may help you resolve if you want to go get some pro training, and start offering such services. There are some relatively basic steps that does the profession must follow. It is not easy, but in principles it is simple. First you must put in order the outside of the window, the window must be perfectly clean with not even the finest speck of dust. It saves a lot of time if you have permissible tools for window tinting, for instance some hard-cards, a heat gun and some in razor blades.
It is also nice to have a tiny squeegee. You'll see seasoned professionals who also carry around paper towels and dishes soap. You also need to look out for the things like automotive caulking compounds and weather stripping sticking out, these can make for it to install, any need to take care these things upfront. Also, make sure there are no cellular phone or satellite radio antenna components on the inside the window. If there are you're going to the work around us any need to put extra liquid around us area so you can move the tent around to get in the right spot before you start cutting up the shape of the razor blade.
We have often seen old antenna mounts or leftover glue on the windows that we didn't see due to the lighting or shading when we first started, and there you are with a soapy film mass with one hand it is a razor blade to scrape of the other hand, all the while knowing that you don't do all things right, he could indubitably fold over the window tent and have to start fully over any just by yourself extra material. This is why you should pay extra concentration to every square into the outside of the interior of the window before attempting this procedure. Once this is completed while the window film is still dry, you need to cut the film to the basic shape of the window. The easiest way to do this is to lay on the outside of the window and cut into the basic shape in a nylon paper, but leave yourself a dinky extra room. Then take the nylon paper and slightly moisten the window to the desired whole and lay the paper against the inside of the window and then flat out the paper working from the center outward in all directions. As you get towards the edges make a few cuts along the edge. Cut the paper to the exact shape and then lay it on top of the film w/liner.
Trace around the outside of the paper on top after you tape down four edges and are sure it is perfectly flat. If you have and areas where you have to go around like the mirrors you have already cut the occasion in the paper and will trace that occasion on to the film and peel sheet. Once you have the exquisite shape you are ready to go and setup the tint. Now place this on the window in the right place after you have put some soapy water on the inside of the window, pull back the first 1/3 of the peel sheet and spray the window tint showing with adhesive window solution. It best if you never touch the window film itself during this process. Makes sure the edges are lined up on all sides. slowly peel and spray adhesive and work any air bubbles out you want to leave about one-eight inch from the top of the window and work downwards. By using the squeegee you need to slowly work downward all the to the lowest and out to the sides, it is okay to let the clarification move down with your squeegee, it is good to use a dinky extra clarification than not enough. Once all things is accurate use the plastic hard tool too bring down the clarification and any soapy water and then pat and buff the moisture left.
To keep the plastic tool from ripping often it is advised to use a paper towel wrapped around it. This is what we have seen most operators do who are seasoned and experienced. One recent qoute we have seen in the last few years is those windows with protection glass, which have a dot pattern on the edges. This makes things a dinky tougher.
You want to use more adhesive on the edges otherwise it will try to peel up. So use more clarification as you are working outward and try to work upward on the first point of contact, some of this extra clarification will roll down, but that is okay you need a tight seam at the top. other issue is to suggest your clients of the law in your state if one exists for window tinting.
Many states outlaw black out tinting generally referred to a Limo tinting, some allow Suvs to have tint like this but not cars, some states Suvs can have it in the back, but not in the front. There are so many laws you need to know what your state says and also and if you live near a border to other state, well? Best to know those laws too. In some stats the operator is responsible, other states the vehicle owner and in some states the installer also. Great more laws, yep. Get use to it you are in an over regulated industry.
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